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Cooking without a safety net

Thursday, October 30, 2014

lamb and things

This week's recipe comes from the excellent and gorgeous Pomegranates and Pine Nuts, by Bethany Kehdy.  She calls it "Auntie Anwar's Mansaf Risotto," but I don't have an Auntie Anwar, I don't know what "mansaf" means (until it occurred to me to check Wikipedia while writing this sentence), and I didn't know until after making this for dinner that risotto is just a rice dish.  I don't know what I thought it was instead, but I thought it was somehow more complicated than "rice in broth."  Hey, I learned stuff!  Kehdy mentions in the book that she has "tweaked" her aunt's recipe.  You'll notice I kept tweaking, or more accurately, I got lazy about sourcing some ingredients.

Bethany's Auntie Anwar's Lamb and Rice and Yogurt Stuff
2 T butter
30 ounces lamb shank(s)
2 carrots, roughly chopped
1 onion, quartered (I think onions are getting really big, so I quartered half an onion, and I think it was enough.  Do what you will)
10 garlic cloves.  Mince 5, leave the other 5 whole.
6 cardamom pods
1 bay leaf (sticking with Dad's tradition, whenever the recipe says "1 bay leaf," I use 2.)
1 cinnamon stick
1 C short-grain or risotto rice (I didn't want a third kind of rice in my tiny kitchen, so I used long-grain brown rice.  The nice thing about serving a new recipe to people who've never had it before is that as long as they think it tastes good, they won't know you did it wrong)
1 t turmeric
3 1/4 C Greek yogurt
1 egg
1 T cornstarch, if needed (I didn't.  The yogurt looks pretty runny when it first starts to cook, but thickens if you give it a little time)
3 T pine nuts
3 T blanched almonds (I couldn't find these, so I used sliced almonds.  I'm too lazy to blanch my own almonds unless the recipe makes a sufficient case as to why blanching matters)
juice of 2 lemons (I used 4-6 T lemon juice from a bottle)
mint leaves, finely chopped, to sprinkle as a topping
salt and black pepper

  1. Melt the butter in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan.  I used my Lodge combo cooker, because I use it whenever I get an excuse.  Add the shanks, carrots, onion, whole garlic cloves, cardamom, bay leaf, and cinnamon, and cook 4-5 minutes, turning frequently, until meat is brown.  Salt to taste, then add 5 C water and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat, cover, and simmer 1 hour, until meat is tender and falling off the bone (Mine wasn't quite "falling off" the way I expected, but it was pulling away from the bone, and I figured it was ready).  Strain well, reserving stock and meat, but discarding veggies and spices.  (Have you ever boiled a cinnamon stick?  It unrolls, and looks like a curled cinnamon sheet.  Neat!)
  2. Put the meat in a bowl to cool a little.  We'll get back to it later.  For now, put the rice, 3 1/4 C of the reserved stock, and the turmeric in a separate saucepan, bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer 25 minutes, until rice is cooked.  You can add broth and stir as needed to get a creamy, risotto texture, but if you're like me and have no idea what you're doing, nor what risotto is supposed to be, you'll probably skip the extra broth and be ok.  Season with salt and pepper.
  3. While the rice cooks, cut the meat from the bones and hack it into smaller, bite-size pieces.  Put the yogurt into the pan you used to cook the meat and cook over medium heat.  Whisk in the egg.  Add the meat and bring the whole mess to a gentle boil.  Reduce heat and simmer, stirring often, 15-20 minutes, until the yogurt is thick and creamy.  If the mixture is too runny, you can add the cornstarch and mix well.
  4. Toast the pine nuts and almonds in a little skillet 1-2 minutes, shaking frequently, until golden.
  5. Mix the crushed garlic and lemon juice in a small bowl.  Bethany serves hers for a whole table, but we have a small table, and two guests for dinner that night, so I made individual servings.  Put a round of Arabic bread (see below) on each plate.  Pour some of the lemon mixture over the bread, spoon on some rice, then some of the lamb-yogurt sauce.  Top with chopped mint and toasted nuts.
Bethany's picture is a whole lot prettier than mine, but she's done this before.


Arabic Bread
2.5 C bread flour (unbleached all-purpose also works)
1/2 t salt
1 t sugar
4 T olive oil
2 t yeast

  1. Mix flour, salt, and sugar in a large bowl.  Add olive oil and mix well.
  2. Add yeast to 2/3 C warm water and stir until it dissolves.  Pout yeast mixture into the flour mixture, a little at a time, combining it with your hands until a ball forms.
  3. Knead the dough on a clean, floured counter top until smooth and elastic (Maybe ten minutes? The more bread you've made, the easier it will be for you to gauge things like this by grabbing the dough ball).  Return dough to mixing bowl and score the top to relieve surface tension.  Cover with a clean, damp dish towel and let rise for about an hour.  It should double in size.
  4. Punch down, knead gently, and roll into a log.  Separate it into four equal pieces.  Roll out each dough ball into a round about 8 " in diameter.  You may have to flour your counter top.  Mine seems to be magical in this regard, perhaps to make up for the annoying color pattern (I can never tell when the damn thing is clean.  Or dirty.  It's maddening.)  Cover the rounds with a dish towel and let rest 10 minutes.
  5. Before you punch your doughball, preheat the oven to 450F.  Stick a cookie sheet in there to get warm.  When the rounds are ready, put one or two on a sheet (the book says one at a time, but two fit on my sheets, and I had four hungry people waiting for dinner.  One of those four was me, so I wasted no time putting food on the table) and bake 2-3 minutes, until the top and edges are slightly golden and a pocket of air has formed.  Once that pocket forms, try not to let them cook more than another minute, but that may not be as critical if you don't plan to consume all of the bread in the next hour or so)
The breads can be kept wrapped in a fridge 2-3 days, or in a freezer 1-2 months.  Allow half an hour to thaw.  Pop them in a microwave or hot oven to re-warm.

Thursday, October 23, 2014

Screw Starbucks

I know everybody gets all meth-addict crazy when the pumpkin spice lattes are in season again.  A few weeks ago, I discovered it is now a hashtag (#PSL, because why would you bother with all those other letters?).  My opinion?  If you're slurping your pumpkin pie through a plastic lid, and saturating it with caffeine, you have a problem.  Whether it's with caffeine or with pumpkin, I couldn't guess, but if it's with pumpkin, there are plenty of other options.

I made my first pumpkin pie when I lived in Oregon.  Because I'm a great big nerd, I wanted to make it with real pumpkin.  Because I'm a great big idiot, I had no idea how much real pumpkin was needed for a single pie, and after I had rendered the enormous gourd I'd purchased into goop, my freezer was full of bright orange slurm.  I did the only reasonable thing and started looking for pumpkin recipes.  I also made a lot of pies that winter.

Whenever I have an oddball ingredient I want to exhaust, I tend to first look in my chocolate chip cookie compendium, because you really can't go wrong with more cookies.  More to the point, the index is well organized, so I can search for a specific ingredient, and then find the recipe.  You'd be surprised how poorly-organized the indices are in many of my cookbooks.  It's very disappointing.


Spicy Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Cookies
2 C flour
4 t baking powder
1 T cinnamon
1/2 t nutmeg
1/4 t ginger (I usually heap the spoon so high that it's closer to 1/2 t.  Suit yourself)
1 t salt
1/2 C shortening
1 C sugar
2 large eggs, beaten
1 C pumpkin puree (make it yourself or buy a can and portion it out, but don't buy pumpkin pie filling--that's different)
1 C chocolate chips
(I've also added 1 C chopped pecans, because I know some people who don't consider a pumpkin pie proper unless it's a praline pumpkin pie)

  1. Oven to 350F, Mr. Sulu!
  2. Cream the shortening and sugar.  Beat in the eggs and pumpkin.  Blend in the dry ingredients.  Add the chips. (aren't cookies easy??)
  3. Drop by teaspoonfuls onto greased (or parchment-lined) sheets (as a test, because this precaution is not always necessary, I tried it without the parchment paper this time.  I still got cookies instead of a goddamned mess, but the bottoms were a little rough once I got them off the sheet.  Use the parchment paper, but if you're ready to go into the oven and just discovered you're out--as I sometimes do--don't fret.).  Bake for about 15 minutes.
  4. Devour.

This is why I should have used parchment paper.  My experimental loss is your gain!
One final note: if your goal is pretty-looking cookies, these should be stored between layers of wax paper.  If your typical audience tends to just cram cookies in their faces rather than take pictures like some sort of food nerd, then don't waste the wax paper.

Thursday, October 9, 2014

A Seedy Joint

I picked up a couple pie pumpkins yesterday, and ended up chatting with the Whole Paycheck cashier for a little bit about gourd-based foods.  I told her how I roast and puree pumpkin (then freeze it in doses) to make pies, and she told me about some sort of dessert involving pumpkin seeds and milk.  I'm still not clear on how to make it, but she at least inspired me to try roasting pumpkin seeds again.

A couple notes:

First, I know all of you food-porn fans will be disappointed, but no pictures this time.  Partly because they're just seeds, after all, and partly because I'm still not sure I'm getting this right.

Second, despite first cooling the oven from 400 to 325 (because I just roasted the pumpkin, remember? For PIE), it took me a lot longer than the recipe suggested to get these cooked.  The last time I roasted pumpkin seeds, I still lived in Oregon, and followed the recipe exactly, and ended up feeling like I was chewing wood chips.  From testing along the way this time, I learned that it was not because I overcooked them, as the friendly cashier had suggested, but because I hadn't cooked them long enough.

Third, instead of drizzling the seeds with half a teaspoon of olive oil, I put all my rinsed seeds in a bowl and tossed them with maybe two teaspoons of olive oil and a generous does of kosher salt (because I don't have "fine sea salt," and I think three kinds of salt in one kitchen is already a little silly. Seriously.  I have a very small kitchen.).

The end result is much better than the last time I made them, but I'm still not entirely sold.  Maybe I'll get it right next year.

Thursday, October 2, 2014

Nuts. ...and berries

Many years ago, when the Chief Taster brought her brother to Oregon for a visit, we were gathered in my kitchen one afternoon between our morning trip to the lava caves and an afternoon hike up Pilot Butte.  I was getting some pizza dough ready for dinner, and they were perusing their snacking options.  He opened a container of granola and started munching a handful, then asked where I got it.  "I made it."  "Seriously??  Dude, do you buy any food?"  "...I bought this flour.  Does that count?"

I had started making granola few months earlier.  I tried a couple recipes, and found one that I definitely didn't like.  The other one was close, and I adjusted it a couple times until I had it where I liked it.  Years later, I changed it again, and I think I'm finally closing in on a really good formula.  This is the current iteration.

Ryan's Crunchy Granola (v.3)
4 C oats
1/2 C chopped almonds
1/2 C coarse chopped pecans
1/2 C dried cherries
1/2 C dried cranberries
1/2 t cinnamon
1/4 t salt
1/3 C oil
1/3 C honey
1/2 C brown sugar

  • Combine the first five ingredients in a large bowl.  Mix it up with your hands; it's more fun that way.
  • Combine remaining ingredients in a small saucepan over med-low heat.  Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally, then stir into the oat mixture.  Turn off the stove, too.
  • Mix well to coat the oat mixture thoroughly, then spread on a baking sheet (you may need two, but I usually manage with one these days.) and bake at 375F for half an hour, removing from oven to stir every 8-10 minutes.  Your baking time may vary; get it nicely browned, but not burnt.  Some of the dried fruit may swell a bit.  That's fine, too.
The above recipe is just a starting point.  If I've been making it over and over for a while (as I did in Oregon), I'll change things a little, but usually sticking with a cup of nuts and a cup of fruit, but I personally don't like walnuts in this recipe, even though I often put them in cookies and other food.  Do what you want.